Linda who is one of my road angels dropped me in Manzini in the morning. Directly to a Maputo with a small rundown minibus (90 rand) 2 hours later at the Gopa Border Gate. I paid $ 70 and got my visa and went to Mozambique. In fact, I understand a little later that I do not need a visa anymore and I’m robbed. Because the police chief was very sullen first, and after having received the money, I was suspicious of the joyfulness. I also condemn the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and the Government of Mozambique for not sharing their information on time.
I traveled for about 2 hours and got off at Maputo minibus station. Someone came right away. I told the hostel I knew I would go, I understood the price. The thing that he called a taxi was rickshaw, moreover he was a commissioner, someone else used the rickshaw. As for the Hostel, he asked for a couple of times the price he said and denied the word. He tried to get the suitcase. We tied the suitcase with the girl in the picture. I shouted. When the host came together, the problem was resolved. The problem is solved with giving him more money.
It is 4 pm… I went to the Feima Market. If you ask Craft Market as written on the map, you will be sent to a completely different place. The name known here is Feima. Oil paintings on canvas, handkerchiefs, handmade woodwork and other fabrics are very nice and inexpensive. He told me about $ 150 for a 1-meter carving of wood, bargaining for $ 50.
From there I walked 500 meters to the historic Palona Hotel by the sea. I walked around in the garden and returned to the hostel by taxi. My hostel name is Base Backpackers. I never liked it, but I will not pass another hostel beause it is too late. I did not understand how they got it in Lonely Planet. In the absence of the internet, the building is out and in very poorly maintained. The only good thing is I’m alone in a 6-person dormitory. The price for 1 night is 600 metical. Maputo Backpackers could be better, at least on the beach, I learned late.
There are plenty of means of transport in the city. That’s why I drive a taxi. I walk back in the daytime and definitely return with the taxi in the dark.
My first job in the morning was to get internet phone line. I found the train station (CFM), down town, market (Mercado Municipal publication on Facebook) and I found myself at Restaurant Istanbul in Maputo Mall. I followed the smell of kebap. Husrev Bey, owner of the restaurant, is a business man from Denizli who is shuttling between Istanbul and Maputo. Although the time I visited was not dinner time, the restaurant was full. The masterchef of the place that tastes Turkish cuisine for Maputo residents for 2 years is from Bingöl. Mr. Husrev has been operating in several business lines in Mozambique for 6 years and the majority of employees are Mozambican. He sells Turkish goods in his stores except restaurants. Very modest, calm but not in place, not attached to a single topic. 22 Mozambique employees were employed in the restaurant. It is open from 8 am to 11 pm. I leave after a couple of empanas made with “ayran” and seafood. As I walk by the ocean I encounter Zambi. It’s a stylish place, so are the prices! I see more expats prefer Zambi. I’m hungry, but I will not eat in Zambi. I am returning to Istanbul restaurant. I can not miss the opportunity to eat kebab, I can not find it again in the coming months. Lahmacun, hot spicy kebab, ayran, künefe are very delicious. It is difficult to find this taste in Turkish restaurants abroad because it is very difficult to find the real stuff. Mr. Husrev says he brings tea and flake pepper from Turkey. Other materials are local. The experience of the masterchef with the region’s delicious meats has also made me eat a more beautiful kebab than I ate in many places in Ankara. When I meet the Turks in the side tables, the conversation is going on. Huseyin is an electronic engineer arrived two weeks ago upon the invitation of the Turkish elevator company. Taner came here about 6 months ago upon the invitation of his company in Turkey and is doing a commercial billboard. Gains are good, country is cheap. Both are satisfied with their situation, but they are now very hungary: “Send us an urgent lahmacun. I ate only breakfast for whole day.”
This morning I’m starting to head north by following the shores. The first stop will be Tofo. Beach, sea, diving paradise. Bigger buses than minibus are going to Tofo from Maputo . You need to call ahead and make a reservation so they can pick you up at the door of the hostel. The move is at 5 o’clock in the morning, and 1,100 mt. Hostel’s manager Isaura says I can travel more easily with Mark, who is a passenger carrier. We look for, we agree on 1,500 medical. I will share phone number or Mark with his permission for easy access: 00258 849111884. We are 4 people in the car with an American living in Tofo and a Mozambican lady who runs a souvenir shop in Tofo. It was better after those little minibuses. We can also take a break anywhere we want. The road is 450 km but the speed limit is 60, there are scattered settlements on the road, people are not missing. We’re in Tofo after about 8 hours. We watched the road with coconut trees. I already liked Tofo. I will stay for two or three days, but where is it? They are evaluating the triple hosted in the car. English is very good! Man speak a little accent. They have a decision about me and I understand only 10 percent. Those who knew the area best, I entrusted myself to them. Their conversation is “do not stay there”, “stay there”, “stay at this hotel”, “no too expensive”, “guesthouse is very nice on the beach” “hmmm” “may be” … This conversation is like the way the sands shrink, It goes on and on like trees.
I was decided to stay at Pariango Beach and I was put in front of the door. I will stay in the dormitory, 600 medicages for foreigners, 450 medicages for locals. I am also a native, now I say 500, accepting the beautiful Mozambique young girl at the reception. Her husband German Jürgen in 55-60 years old running this hostel. They have a beautiful crossbreed 2 years old daughter, she takes off her nipple and says “olaaaa” to every new guest. Very cute! Tofo is a small village in touristy. It is famous for its extensive beach, white fine sand beach, snorkel and whale shark diving, SCUBA ocean diving, surfing, horse riding. There are 4 of us in a room of 16 people with 8 double-deckers. Natasha who runs a hostel in London, Marianda who has been diving, Chinese Mio who goes to cookery course in Cape Town. I go to the beaches right now, touching my toes and pulling them back, thinking that the ocean is cold. I tremble, I am amazed. I swim finally, yuppiii!
The next day when I think about what to do for breakfast Marianda reads my mind and says, “Let’s have breakfast together.” She brought her food. She makes omelettes, fruity yogurt, apples, a slice of cheese, two slices of bread and tea. In the open kitchen in the garden, we make breakfast with the other guests and leave. Today is the rest day, the ocean, sun, sand, sleep all day… The lady who cleans the room says she can wash my clothes. I have not make them washed, as much as I can, but this time I am giving my loundries to the lady. I hope I can get it all of them tomorrow.
After the evening everyone returns to the country, we come across the beach. Natasha learns Portuguese from the lifeguards, Miranda counts the fish she sees on the dive, Mio is tense during her first dive, but is more relaxed on the second dive, unable to fully perceive the excitement around her. The German couple who went to the whale shark snorkeling saw a lot of manta and fish, no whale, but the group of the previous day saw four whales, one of them gnawed. The female whale is rare. What luck. I will go tomorrow.
I loved the lobster restaurant the day before. We went there to eat fish with Mio. The island tour ad on the signboard of the restaurant caught our attention. We changed our plans for tomorrow. All day, breakfast, lunch, snorkel, village tour, island tour, including 4000 medikage wanted this tour, I understood in 2000. Everything in Africa is negotiated. It is inevitable for those traveling on a long and limited budget. But if your budget is fine and you have been in vacation for a short while, do not bother yourself and them. In any case, they are poor and laboring from us. At least you know who your money is going to and you are buying a service / product.
I gave up the suspicious whales I was going to see. I will go to the island and village in the island.
5 meters in length, wooden, non-motorized, without a row, yeke rudder, linen sailing; vira bismillah Pigy Island. Mio and I, the captain and Chris … The captain opened the sail, waiting for us, walking a little in the water and going out to the boat. The captain has a long pole in his hand. With the help of the wind in the sail, from the slippery, we open the sand and open it with sand. The lagoon is very quiet. There were a lot of pink flamingos, but they did not come back after the big hurricane in February. Tofo suffered great damage. Help came from all over the world. The giant coconut trees that have been dismantled from their roots in the village (Pigy Island) are a sign of the size of the hurricane. We are snorkelling in the lagoon before the go-go. There are many giant sea stars, blue, green, orange, red … Sudden and violent rain is beginning. Once a month we were caught raining. In the ocean we are a small old wooden boat, rusty, rusty linen and heavy rain.
I do not know what the days are, what date I have, I do not care. I ask and learn during hostel registration. It’s May 9th. I did not ask what day of the week. I have the comfort of not knowing.
I fell on the road again at 6 in the morning. I gathered in a hurry and walked to Tofo’s market, and Mio helped me move my suitcase. The day before I called Mark, I suggested you go to Vilanculo. He said he’d call me if the customer was serious. I also noticed a few people in the neighborhood, but no sound. I need a minibus again. I’m in the minibus going to the square Inhambane. I’m in Inhambane in half an hour. The driver leaves me in the limo, right. A lady at the ticket helps in exchanging money. Then she walks to the pier as if she had loaded my bag without question. I’m running from behind with a squeegee. We get on a traditional boat with a 20-meter wooden engine, I say, about 100 people. After half an hour of interesting sea cruise, I went to Maxixe. I go to the port again in the pursuit of Anna and wait for the minibus. It’s coming in half an hour. 150 km to the Vilanculo, baobab trees began to appear. I get down at the Vilanculo square at 3:00 am after hundreds of stops, passengers, trawlers, and loads. I’m calling the tuktuk and asking for the hostel address. He says he will know and take 10 medikajaj. We are going. I extend the money and wait for it. “But that’s 20 medications.” “Yes,” “But I want 100.” “You said 10.” “No, I said 100.” “No, you said 10.” “One hundred mam.” “I’ve never heard a hundred words in your mouth. I know what I hear…” His English is worse than mine, even worse. If they do not understand what you say, they say “yes” to everything and “sorry” when it’s a problem. First “yes” then “sorry”… Two words I heard the most before.
I’m at Baobab Beach Backpackers. (video on YouTube) What a lovely place.